Waterman Grille

Waterman Grille
Four Richmond Square
Providence, RI 02906

Approaching and entering Waterman Grille, I was greeted the subtle but unmistakable scent of wood smoke. This small old looking brick building is dwarfed by a very modern looking pink building. On entering at street level, one has a clear view into the kitchen over the bar. I didn't see it, but a lower level was in evidence with an outdoor bar and outdoor seating at river level.

We had considered what the dress code might be before going, with high prices and fancy looking web site and photos, but entering, found that the rest of the patrons were dressed in casual wear and we needn't have worried. From perusing their website, the upstairs and facilities can be used for more formal dining, though it isn't clear if that room is used for daily dining.

The restaurant's main floor creates a casual, cozy atmosphere with its blend of brick, dark woods, and open beamed ceilings. The main level dining room is lined with windows looking out on the Seekonk River, Henderson Bridge (aka the Red Bridge) and the East Providence shoreline of the river. While dining we had the pleasure of watching four rowing boats speed down the river. It is easy to imagine that later in the season sitting on the many outdoor decks would make for a very pleasant dining experience.

At the time of my visit, the restaurant had extended their Monday night Prix Fixe menu beyond the original April 28 run date. I chose not to enjoy that phenomenal combination, the only person at a table of seven not to do so, and ventured into the full menu. My top two choices from the menu led to many minutes of agonizing, the lamb steak or the Cioppino. I opted for the lamb, and was treated to a very generous steak, perfectly cooked to medium-rare served over very good mashed potatoes. I ordered the Waterman Salad as an appetizer since the meal didn't really include any vegetables, a minor complaint.

I was not impressed with the Waterman Green Salad. The best item on the salad plate was the small piece of toasted bread with olive oil and a generous spread of goat cheese. The salad itself was a spring green mix with a very understated dressing that I couldn't even taste. Another of my dining companions ordered the same salad and concurred with this analysis. Everyone else was extremely happy with their beef skewers and stuffed mushrooms, with the beef skewers and its extremely delicious spicy, "fiery" on the menu, cashew "dip" being the crowds favorite. I say dip, because it was much more of a thick spread of coarsely chopped cashews, a low level, but detectable and very complementary, addition of spice. My companions were eating this dip with a fork when they were out of beef.

With the current Monday Prix Fixe, the winners overall as best choices were the Beef Skewers, Hereford Top Sirloin, and the Tiger Cake dessert. I didn't order a dessert, but did sample the Creme Brulee and must say that it was also excellent, though I think served while still a little bit warm. Early spoonfuls of the custard were warm and soft, but the final bites (my dining companion had eaten too much) were set nicely and had the perfect custard texture, especially contrasted with the thick and crisp caramelized sugar layer. I regretfully didn't get to sample either the Tiger Cake or the Tropical Sorbet, though one of the other diners, who especially loves creme brulee, which was very good, declared the cake the better of the two.

The only major complaint for the evening was that
two of my dining companions had ordered the salmon entree and received
only partly cooked fish. The wait staff quickly took the meals back to
the kitchen and had them replaced with new preparations fish within a
few minutes. The service staff were very attentive and friendly, one
whom at one point volunteered, during dessert selection, that he felt
the Tiger Cake was an excellent choice, having had two pieces as his
lunch.


Price Range: appetizers: ~$10, entrees: $15-30, dessert: $8

Recommended? Absolutely: Well prepared and flavorful food.

Date of Visit: May 12, 2008